After six years sitting vacant, the former home of Little Pete’s diner in Center City is coming back to life as a new restaurant with Mediterranean island vibes.
The 17th and Chancellor corner space — now the ground floor of the Hyatt Centric hotel — will reopen in early December as Almyra, a modern Greek restaurant from the team behind Estia.
Instead of formica countertops, there’s now a custom-made marble bar, and instead of eggs and hash browns, the kitchen turns out charred octopus and whipped feta.
This is the sixth venue from the restaurant group owned by the Pashalis family, following their flagship Locust Street location and two sister spots in Marlton and Radnor, plus a Pietro’s Pizzeria in both Center City and Radnor. A fourth Estia is scheduled for next September in Naples, Florida.
Named for the goddess of the sea breeze, Almyra sees the family taking a lighter, airier approach to the cuisine of their heritage — with a lower price point.
“We’re gearing towards a younger crowd,” Gus Pashalis, part-owner and the restaurant group’s regional manager, told Billy Penn. “Going into Estia Locust is like coming into my grandma’s house in the village,” he said, while a visit to Almyra is like “landing on an island” in the Aegean Sea.
A light, earth-toned palette colors the 7,000-sq.-ft., window-lined space, and an elaborate sound system is set up to pump in European dance music and “Mykonos vibes” through late night.
The menu offers a more adventurous twist on traditional Greek cuisine than the Pashalis’ other locations.
It offers spreads like tirokafteri — a whipped feta with parmesan, jalapeno, and lemon — and patzaria, combining beets, lemon, labneh, and garlic. The dakos-style Greek village salad comes topped with feta mousse, and mezze selections feature charred octopus and kadaifi-covered shrimp.
There are experimental flourishes that marry Greek and Asian flavors, like tuna and avocado-topped crispy rice, and Greco rolls — sushi-style servings of salmon wrapped in grape leaves. Tiropita wontons come filled with feta, cream, and Greek hot honey.
Mains range from whole grilled sea bass with ladolemono dressing, to a roasted tomato and feta lobster pasta. There are also meatier dishes like slow braised beef short ribs with a side of feta mash, or herb-marinated Australian lamb chops with fried potatoes. Skewer selections include chicken, filet mignon, or shrimp, the last marinated in metaxa, a strong Greek spirit.
It’s one of the many Hellenic libations served at Almyra’s bar, alongside ouzo, mastiha, and rakomelo. Those also show up in the specialty cocktails.
“We tried to incorporate some Greek influence into [our bar program],” said director of operations Michael Wirzberger. “So, everything’s colorful, fun, fresh, seasonal.”
The Petalouda combines the pine-like mastiha with vodka, elderflower, and butterfly pea tea. The Anthos, mixes gin with grapes, rosemary, and Lillet, and the Zesto is a smoky-sweet blend of chipotle tequila, mezcal, pineapple, and lime. The cocktails run from $14-$16.
The bar, a 45-seat marble square, sits between the entrance and a wall-sized art piece, an arrangement of driftwood from the Pashalis family’s hometown of Nafpaktos, collected and painted by a friend back home.
Adjacent is the dining area, with seating for 200 across deep, half-circle banquettes and tables for smaller groups. Past the open kitchen and towards the rear is a semi-enclosed separate dining space, with seating for thirty. Outside seating is still TBD.
Throughout the restaurant, large amphorae and pithoi — traditional Greek storage vessels, some barrel-sized, in this case — are placed to give a “museum-esque” feeling when you walk in, Pashalis said. Some are over a hundred years old, he boasted, and had to go through a historic commission review during import before being deemed appropriate to display.
With opening a few days away there are still some final details to iron out — practical issues like staff training and printing of menus, to aesthetic decisions, like the color of light bulbs on the above-bar chandelier which Pashalis is still not settled on. Contemplating the large flatscreen at the end of the bar, he suggested big local sports games and maybe scenes from Greece but, beyond that, is unsure.
“I’m open to ideas,” he said. “Still trying to figure that one out.”
Reservations are available for Almyra starting Dec. 1, with a grand opening set for Dec. 7.
1636 Chancellor St. | Dinner 4 to 10 p.m. daily; bar 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday-Tuesday, 4 to 11 p.m. Wednesday & Thursday, 4 p.m. to 12 a.m. Friday & Saturday | almyrarestaurant.com
