In Philadelphia, you donโt have to look hard to find an Irish bar โ and weโre not just talking about the first half of March, when drinking establishments of all kinds dress up in shamrocks for a chance to get in on lucrative St. Patrickโs Day revelry.
Irish bars are the most prevalent kind of tavern in the city, from the themed pubs of Center City to the corner tappies that dot the neighborhoods. A sampling from a three-square-mile swath of Northeast Philly turns up Dalyโs Pub, Quinnโs, Patโs Pub, Leneghanโs Irish Pub, Harringtonโs Pub, JJโs Irish Pub, McNallyโs Tavern, Tom Fooleryโs Irish Pub, Curranโs Irish Inn, Scruffyโs Irish Pubโฆand the list goes on.
Thatโs not entirely surprising, since Philadelphia has the largest Irish population of any big city in the U.S. โ around 220,500 people, according to 2013 census numbers. (Boston has a higher percentage, 20 versus 14 or so, but a lower overall population.)
But Irish pubs arenโt just a Philly thing โ they dominate global drinking culture. There are Irish pubs in Nigeria and Irish pubs in Azerbaijan. In Argentina. In Indonesia. Thereโs an Irish pub at the base of Mt. Everest. The same canโt be said for a German beer hall or English brewpub or Scottish whisky bar.
How did Irish pubs take over the world? A combination of two complementary factors: Good marketing and good cheer.
Guinness and the โIrish Pub Conceptโ
Tim Herlihy is the U.S. brand ambassador for the Tullamore DEW, and for a recent seminar at national booze conference Tales of the Cocktail he researched the origins of Irish pub spread.
He traces the start of the trend back to a Guinness sales plan in the late 1980s. The folks running Guinness noticed that while sales in other parts of Europe were good, distribution was not โ their dry stout only sold well in bars that were Irish-themed. So they made a concerted effort to get more Irish-themed bars built.
The first big push came in the lead-up to the 1990 World Cup, which was held in Italy. A team of six Guinness sales reps traveled the country meeting bar owners and potential publicans.
โThey were like, โListen, Irish fans are going to come here and watch the matches, and theyโre great drinkers,’โ Herlihy recounts. So, โโif people want to watch sport, Irish pubs are the best environments.โโ
Heโs laid eyes on some of the brewery reps original sales documents, which showed that revenue at Irish pubs would be higher than typical bars and that the beverage-to-food ratio would also be higher (meaning higher profit). The pitch worked; from January to June 1990, no less than 58 Irish pubs were launched across Italy.
Around the same time, a Dublin architect named Mel McNally also had the realization that the Irish pub was a packagable concept. He came up with a set of five core pub designs, and began selling them to builders and restaurateurs around Ireland and the UK under the brand name โthe Irish Pub Company.โ
In 1990, the two like-minded companies joined forces, and the big export push began in earnest. By the end of the decade, the Irish Pub Company had helped open 2,000 themed taverns across Europe and hundreds in the United States, either by shipping pre-fabricated bars or simply providing architectural and business plans.
Not everyone loves the idea of cookie-cutter bars that are backed by a huge alcohol company.
As Irish Pub Company-backed Fadรณ planned to open in Philadelphia, many Irish bars in the area โ including McGillinโs and the two Irish Pubs on Walnut Street โ organized a boycott of Guinness because they thought it was unfair of a brewing giant to โhelpโ one bar while others were pouring its beer. They still do not pour Guinness to this day, choosing instead to offer a different stout.
But for many people, even a pre-fab Irish bar is better than nothing.
โThose bars are like a โpub in a box.โ But I guess I would rather have a โpub in a boxโ than no pub at all,โ says Fergus โFergieโ Carey, co-owner of Fergieโs Pub and three other bars in Philadelphia.
โCraicโ and the Irish habit of having a good time
Most of the Irish bars in Philadelphia โ all those taprooms in the neighborhoods โ are not backed by the Guinness corporation. Theyโre just an organic outgrowth of Irish culture.
โThereโs always been an insane amount of pubs per capita in Ireland,โ notes Herlihy, who is a native of Terminfeckin, a small village in Irelandโs County Louth. โThereโs a really strong brewing and distilling culture in Ireland โ there are breweries and distilleries in every tiny town โ so once you have the liquid, then you need the establishment.โ
Thereโs even a Gaelic term to describe the idea of communal fun: โCraicโ (pronounced โcrackโ). When huge numbers of Irish emigrated from the European island to other parts of the world โ there are around 6 million people living in Ireland, while the diaspora numbers around 80 million โ they brought that craic with them.
According to Herlihy, the defining characteristic of a true Irish pub is that โitโs friendly in a non-pretentious way.โ The best of them are small, he says, and usually narrow, so that even if there are only a few people inside, thereโs an instant fun atmosphere. Even if the bars are larger, theyโre equally welcoming to a businessperson looking to unwind and what Herlihy lovingly refers to as a โdegenerate.โ
โWe could walk into an Irish pub and have a meeting over a drink,โ he says, โor we could sit at the bar and get totally scooped. Itโs the quintessential bar. The French have the cafes, the Italians have the restaurants and the Irish have the pubs. Iโm oversimplifying, but generally, itโs true.โ
Fergie agrees. โWhose bar would you rather go to โ a French guyโs, a Polish guyโs, an Israeli guyโs or an Irish guyโs?โ says the Dublin native. โWeโre known to be fun, witty and hospitable. Party on.โ







