Charred polpo with pepperonata, saffron, bouquerones at Oltremare. (KC Tinari/Oltremare)

Oltremare, which opened last night, marks a return to Rittenhouse โ€” more specifically, 2121 Walnut Street โ€” for chef-owner Townsend Wentz. 

The spot had briefly been home to his flagship French bistro, Townsend, relocated from East Passyunk in early 2020. It shut down during the pandemic.ย ย 

Today, the bistro is back on East Passyunk as Townsend EPX, and the Walnut Street space has been redesigned into a coastally cozy reflection of Oltremareโ€™s Amalfi-inspired cuisine. Itโ€™s Wentzโ€™s second opening of the year following Januaryโ€™s launch of The Hayes at 1123 Walnut, adjacent to the chefโ€™s Spanish-influenced Oloroso and in the company of A Mano, his Italian restaurant, from which Oltremare takes a comparatively lighter, more seafood-focused approach. 

Oltremare’s lobster francobolli. (KC Tinari/Oltremare)

Beyond bringing together a passion for seafood and Italian cuisine, Oltremare was inspired by an urge to combine โ€œthe technical prowess of the guys that I have on board with me,โ€ Wentz told Billy Penn. โ€œThe kind of more refined approach weโ€™d like to offer, we felt this would be a perfect explanation for all of that to come together.โ€ His Oltremare team features chefs Christopher Reid and Ted Manko.

Charred polpo with pepperonata, saffron, bouquerones at Oltremare. (KC Tinari/Oltremare)

On the menu, bluefin tuna crudo with pickled kumquat and Calabrian chili; fluke ceviche with a mussel vinaigrette, and charred octopus served with pepperonata, saffron, and boquerones. There are meatier options, like a braised lamb pappardelle with porcini mushrooms and pine nut gremolata, and an ossobuco bianco served on top of a creamy Tallegio polenta. Handmade pastas include spaghetti alla limone and lobster francobolli.

Ossobucco bianco at Oltremare. (KC Tinari/Oltremare)

Oltremareโ€™s bar, a wood and marble counter with space for 12 towards the rear of the 70-seat dining room, features a wide selection of Italian wines and amaros curated by sommelier Gordana Kostovski, along with plenty of Italian-inspired cocktails. Negroni spagliatto combines Cocchi Torino, Campari, and gin with sparkling wine, while the Il Nono is a balance of Tuaca, bourbon, and angostura bitters, Oltremareโ€™s take on the Manhattan blends Averna amaro, Cardamaro, and rye whiskey. 

Designed, Wentz said, to be โ€œas warm and comfortable as possible,โ€ the verdant, 2,200 square-foot-space features mirrored walls, and an intimately lit mezzanine with additional table seating overlooking the main dining room.

2121 Walnut St. | 4:30 to 10 p.m., Tuesday-Sunday | www.oltremarephl.com

Ali Mohsen is Billy Penn's food and drink reporter.