Margherita pizza at Medusa in Fishtown

Philly has a lot of pizzerias. Itโ€™s not something the city is known for โ€” tomato pie is a whole different beast โ€” but anyone who lives here can speak to the idea.

โ€œI literally have a pizza shop on my block, and thereโ€™s many others.โ€ said Carolyn Wyman, a nationally-recognized food historian with seven books to her name. โ€œI live in South Philly and every corner pretty much has a deli or a food store.โ€

Combine those neighborhood joints with the cityโ€™s longtime mainstays โ€” 92-year-old Marraโ€™s on East Passyunk, 73-year-old Taconelliโ€™s in Port Richmond โ€” plus the wave of fancy Neapolitan makers (Stella, Pizzeria Vetri, Nomad), the trendy Roman-style pizzaiolos (Alicรฉ, Rione) and the onslaught of build-your-own chains (&Pizza, Snap, Blaze) and you have a pie scene thatโ€™s truly bursting at the seams.

Thereโ€™s so much pizza here that a recent study by Apartment Guide found Philly has the second-highest number of pizzerias per capita among large U.S. cities โ€” nearly 27 for every 100,000 people.

Thatโ€™s more even than pizza-famed NYC, which has an average of around 17 per 100k if you add the boroughs together. Chicago comes in with a measly 15. By the surveyโ€™s count, Las Vegas is at the top of the list with just over 40 pizzerias per 100k โ€” probably attributable to its much lower number of permanent residents and a restaurant scene built for tourism.

The report does give Philly unconditional first in a different slot: 15.5% of all eating establishments here are pizzerias, it says.

How many pizza spots does Philadelphia have? Thatโ€™s an open question.

Apartment Guideโ€™s numbers are calculated using a base of nearly 3,000 restaurants and more than 400 pizzerias. But a study from the Health Department earlier this fall found Philadelphia has more than 6,000 places to eat. And a Yelp search for โ€œpizzeriasโ€ inside the city brought up more than 2,300 responses.

Arabiatta pie from the original Pizzeria Beddia Credit: Danya Henninger / Billy Penn

Italian roots, and cheesesteaks too

Part of the cityโ€™s pizza proclivity could be traceable to its residentsโ€™ ancestry. According to census data, Philadelphia is home to the second largest Italian-American population in the country.

Naples is the original home of some of the owners behind LaScalaโ€™s Birra, which operates two locations, one in South Philly and another in South Jersey. Both spots make Italian-style pies, with flour shipped from the Old Country and dough proofed for 48 hours.

โ€œI feel because thereโ€™s a big Italian community and people in Philly, they really love pasta and pizza,โ€ said Davide Lubrano Lavadera, manager at LaScalaโ€™s Birra on East Passyunk.

He made a quick addendum: โ€œAnd fries and cheesesteak.โ€

Thatโ€™s consistent with speculation from author Wyman, who runs a regular Taste of Philly food tour. โ€œFrankly, I think a lot of those pizza places are selling cheesesteaks,โ€ she told Billy Penn.

West Philly pizza shop owner Tim Mironives is certainly selling sandwiches. He said pizza makes up between 40 to 50 percent of his sales at Atlas Pizza.

Located on South 52nd Street, the neighborhood shop has been in business for about 20 years. Mironives said he entered the pizza game because he saw it as a great business opportunity. โ€œI would say weโ€™re more flexible to the change of times,โ€ he said. โ€œOur customers are more loyal.โ€

Itโ€™s a loyal customer base thatโ€™s kept Joeโ€™s Pizza in Center City afloat for more than three decades, said co-owner Casimira Villico. Villico runs Joeโ€™s and several other Philly slice shops with her husband Ernesto, who moved to the states from Sicily, Italy.

โ€œWe have customers that have been coming for 30 years,โ€ Villico said. โ€œThey donโ€™t come for cheesesteaks, they come for pizza.โ€

Roman style pizza at Rione

Upside-down and everything in between

If thereโ€™s one thing everyone can agree on about Philly pizza, itโ€™s that itโ€™s not going anywhere.

The city also brings its own unique style: the upside-down pie, popularized by local cult-favorite Santucciโ€™s, which has several outposts around the city run by various members of the founding family.

Itโ€™s also found at Stogie Joeโ€™s Tavern on East Passyunk. One of the newer kids on the block, the shop just celebrated its 10-year anniversary. Itโ€™s known for the upside-down style, which features a crispy square crust and flips the ingredients, putting the cheese beneath the sauce.

Stogieโ€™s manager Joey DiOrio said the unique and diverse offerings of pizzerias in Philly are what keep them all in business on that side of town.

โ€œThinking about the pizza places that are on Passyunk Ave., they all do a little bit of everything,โ€ DiOrio told Billy Penn. Still, he said pizza accounts for half of all the restaurantโ€™s sales.

Plenty of artisan spots tossing Neapolitan pies and build-your-own chains joined the family-owned neighborhood shops across the urban grid over the past couple decades. Though they represent a hefty slice of the cityโ€™s pizza scene, Phillyโ€™s traditional pie purveyors are still comfortably going strong.

โ€œA lot of people are constantly feeling worried about the competition, but in our case we tend to be friends with everyone because in this business,โ€ said Lubrano Lavadera of LaScalaโ€™s Birra. โ€œI feel like what you want is to never stop learning.โ€

Layla A. Jones (she/her) was a general assignment reporter for Billy Penn from 2019 to 2021. Her work has helped underserved community organizations, earned free repairs for property owners who sustained...