Philly has a lot of pizzerias. Itโs not something the city is known for โ tomato pie is a whole different beast โ but anyone who lives here can speak to the idea.
โI literally have a pizza shop on my block, and thereโs many others.โ said Carolyn Wyman, a nationally-recognized food historian with seven books to her name. โI live in South Philly and every corner pretty much has a deli or a food store.โ
Combine those neighborhood joints with the cityโs longtime mainstays โ 92-year-old Marraโs on East Passyunk, 73-year-old Taconelliโs in Port Richmond โ plus the wave of fancy Neapolitan makers (Stella, Pizzeria Vetri, Nomad), the trendy Roman-style pizzaiolos (Alicรฉ, Rione) and the onslaught of build-your-own chains (&Pizza, Snap, Blaze) and you have a pie scene thatโs truly bursting at the seams.
Thereโs so much pizza here that a recent study by Apartment Guide found Philly has the second-highest number of pizzerias per capita among large U.S. cities โ nearly 27 for every 100,000 people.
Thatโs more even than pizza-famed NYC, which has an average of around 17 per 100k if you add the boroughs together. Chicago comes in with a measly 15. By the surveyโs count, Las Vegas is at the top of the list with just over 40 pizzerias per 100k โ probably attributable to its much lower number of permanent residents and a restaurant scene built for tourism.
The report does give Philly unconditional first in a different slot: 15.5% of all eating establishments here are pizzerias, it says.
How many pizza spots does Philadelphia have? Thatโs an open question.
Apartment Guideโs numbers are calculated using a base of nearly 3,000 restaurants and more than 400 pizzerias. But a study from the Health Department earlier this fall found Philadelphia has more than 6,000 places to eat. And a Yelp search for โpizzeriasโ inside the city brought up more than 2,300 responses.
Italian roots, and cheesesteaks too
Part of the cityโs pizza proclivity could be traceable to its residentsโ ancestry. According to census data, Philadelphia is home to the second largest Italian-American population in the country.
Naples is the original home of some of the owners behind LaScalaโs Birra, which operates two locations, one in South Philly and another in South Jersey. Both spots make Italian-style pies, with flour shipped from the Old Country and dough proofed for 48 hours.
โI feel because thereโs a big Italian community and people in Philly, they really love pasta and pizza,โ said Davide Lubrano Lavadera, manager at LaScalaโs Birra on East Passyunk.
He made a quick addendum: โAnd fries and cheesesteak.โ
Thatโs consistent with speculation from author Wyman, who runs a regular Taste of Philly food tour. โFrankly, I think a lot of those pizza places are selling cheesesteaks,โ she told Billy Penn.
West Philly pizza shop owner Tim Mironives is certainly selling sandwiches. He said pizza makes up between 40 to 50 percent of his sales at Atlas Pizza.
Located on South 52nd Street, the neighborhood shop has been in business for about 20 years. Mironives said he entered the pizza game because he saw it as a great business opportunity. โI would say weโre more flexible to the change of times,โ he said. โOur customers are more loyal.โ
Itโs a loyal customer base thatโs kept Joeโs Pizza in Center City afloat for more than three decades, said co-owner Casimira Villico. Villico runs Joeโs and several other Philly slice shops with her husband Ernesto, who moved to the states from Sicily, Italy.
โWe have customers that have been coming for 30 years,โ Villico said. โThey donโt come for cheesesteaks, they come for pizza.โ
Upside-down and everything in between
If thereโs one thing everyone can agree on about Philly pizza, itโs that itโs not going anywhere.
The city also brings its own unique style: the upside-down pie, popularized by local cult-favorite Santucciโs, which has several outposts around the city run by various members of the founding family.
Itโs also found at Stogie Joeโs Tavern on East Passyunk. One of the newer kids on the block, the shop just celebrated its 10-year anniversary. Itโs known for the upside-down style, which features a crispy square crust and flips the ingredients, putting the cheese beneath the sauce.
Stogieโs manager Joey DiOrio said the unique and diverse offerings of pizzerias in Philly are what keep them all in business on that side of town.
โThinking about the pizza places that are on Passyunk Ave., they all do a little bit of everything,โ DiOrio told Billy Penn. Still, he said pizza accounts for half of all the restaurantโs sales.
Plenty of artisan spots tossing Neapolitan pies and build-your-own chains joined the family-owned neighborhood shops across the urban grid over the past couple decades. Though they represent a hefty slice of the cityโs pizza scene, Phillyโs traditional pie purveyors are still comfortably going strong.
โA lot of people are constantly feeling worried about the competition, but in our case we tend to be friends with everyone because in this business,โ said Lubrano Lavadera of LaScalaโs Birra. โI feel like what you want is to never stop learning.โ







